Would you pay £1300.00 for a mushroom? How much do you love a food served by the "shaving"? Welcome to the wondrous world of white truffles.
Would you pay £1300.00 for a mushroom? How much do you love
a food served by the "shaving"?
Welcome to the wondrous world of white truffles.
October is prime white truffle time. For the strong of taste and fat of wallet,
few gustatory delights rival white truffles-obviously an extravagance at
approximately £1300.00 per pound, but absolutely worth every precious penny,
aficionados insist. Unlike the other
more plebeian truffles, the Italian white truffle is the one only specially
trained pigs can find, and white truffles grow more frighteningly scarce with
each passing season. Indigenous to just
one tiny Italian region where they command the same reverence as artistic
masterpieces and sacred texts, white truffles are available only during
October, November, and early December; and white truffle auctions draw more
intense combatants and aggressive bidders than art and exotic car auctions
combined.
Exceptionally high praise for an elusive fungus
Time magazine food writer Josh Ozersky claims, "white
truffles have a unique aroma, a combination of newly ploughed soil, fall rain,
burrowing earthworms and the pungent memory of lost youth and old love
affairs." He stresses how he could not find a single reputable chef who did
not love them-and superlatives only...no room for simple, ordinary expressions
of adulation, admiration, or affection.
No chef just "likes" or simply "appreciates" white
truffles. Upscale, fully five-star chefs
love, adore, and go wild over Italian white truffles. At the highest end of all things upscale,
uber chef Alex Guarnaschelli goes straight to the pinnacle of the superlative
scale, insisting, "They are sublime."
She describes their flavour as "delicate yet complex," an
expression consistent with the claim white truffles taste like old love
affairs.
Tasty and tempting truffle treats
Guamaschelli prefers her white truffle shavings over mashed
potatoes or risotto, warming them slightly to release their flavour. In the finer food emporia, chefs deliver their
white truffle shavings atop creamy or buttery pasta. The Internet's leading white truffle retailer
takes a more eclectic approach, suggesting, "Shave raw white truffle on
pasta, risotto, salads, eggs, sauces, or with poultry or other white meats such
as rabbit or veal. White truffles also pair well with hard Italian cheeses,
proscuito and salami." A true
truffle snob will presume to inquire about her tuber's provenance, because
truffles that grow near oak roots will deliver more fragrance than those grown
near limes, and tubers that trade water and minerals with pine trees take-on a
"garlicky" flavor. Just as
importantly, a truffle nurtured in pliant, forgiving earth will come out smooth
and soft, whereas the product of hard soil will emerge knotty and tough.
One need not consider nutrition.
Under no circumstances might one claim-at least, not with a
straight face-that adding truffle shavings to a dish increases its nutritional
value. Although trufflistos insist they
are exceptionally protein rich and loaded with vitamin D, more reliable sources
stress that the elusive tuber is 90% water, so that a person would have to
consume at least a pound, or approximately1231 shavings, of truffle
"meat" to get any significant protein and carbohydrate.
The designer-label fungus
One very frugal gourmet, therefore, compares truffles with
designer labels: "The haberdasher shows you two blue blazers-absolutely
identical in every way, except that one sports the distinctive Ralph Lauren
logo and costs considerably more. Which
do you choose? The shopper who chooses
the Lauren over no name also will choose truffles over mushrooms. How much does the buyer's ego need
nourishment from conspicuous consumption?"
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